“But the anticipated surprise of new dishes is what draws me back to the chef’s counter in this broodingly handsome space. The techniques that once defined him as a leading modernist in a town resistant to molecular gastronomy are now mainstream. But here they work in service of a superior culinary mind who simply sees food differently than anyone else.”

“Cozy-comfy booths, counter seating and a wee bar make up the brick-and-mortar foundation for global fare gone imaginatively wild, flying high: chilled egg custard with dashi broth, broccoli and mustard oil”

“Since opening day, Peter Serpico’s best trick has been showing us a cuisine in progress — never still, never staid, never boring, and always exploring (via dry-aged duck mole and chicken-and-snail lasagna) the boundaries of what regional American cuisine can be.”